Friday, October 15, 2010

New York City - Central Park - Newark

It was an easy taxi ride from the dock to Boston South Station, we could have used the subway or a bus service, but choose to use a cab because of the size of our luggage unfamiliarity with out other two options. Again we found a large older train station that offered many dinning options, Nita found the book she’s been looking for the past week, and clean restrooms. Being Columbus Day weekend out train is full – that’s right sold out- we attempted to get an earlier train and it was sold out as well, so it appears that Amtrak is doing well on the east coast. Ron and I called Ride and Roll a bike tour company to arrange a bike tour in NYC for Sunday and once again we heard –“Sold Out”. We’ll attempt to rent bikes and do a self directed tour as we did in Montreal.

We arrived in NYC after a 4 hour train rind, the train was full being it’s Columbus weekend and a lot of students going home. The train rout hugs the coast through most of the rout so the scenery is wonderful, I thing everyone who lives within 20 miles of the coast must own a boat. The fall foliage is not as colorful as that which we saw in Canada but it is still a beautiful time of the year to travel this part of the country. We met Jennifer, Arie, and Avie in the lobby of The Milburn Hotel, and Ron and Avie are typical grandparents with all the gooo – goos and ghaas. We had dinner at the Viand Café at 75th and Broadway a NYC neighborhood diner, where the waters knew 80% of the people who walked through the door. I ordered Tuscan Chicken, something that I make at home, and I was out done. Not only was it good it was a half chicken far more than I could eat, included salad, enough for both Nita and I, all for $13.95. I can see why the locals eat here.

Sunday morning Ron and I went to Columbus Circle and found an abundance of street hustlers offering bikes for rent for the purpose of touring Central Park on a bicycle. The sales agent then escorted us to the bike shop about three blocks away and we were able to procure our bikes for $15 each for two hours, about 66% of asking price after just a little haggling. Our ride took us all the way around the park with numerous stops to see the monuments the lakes, several vista, and conversations with folks ranging from Zurich, Switzerland to Minneapolis, MN. We figured we did between 8 and 10 miles which should make up for some of the “Spinning Classes” that we’ve missed while on our trip. We were due back to Jennifer’s apartment at noon to meet Nita and Avie and their friends, Amy and Miles Moffet who used to live in Birmingham but are now living in New Haven Connecticut. We spent the balance of the day having lunch at a Hudson River Café and walking through Central Park and becoming a bit familiar with New York life and why so many people choose to live so close to each other. At 6:53 PM we were on the New Jersey Transit Authorities train from NYC Penn Station to Newark’s Penn Station to meet Tom and Tako Lento for dinner. Nita and I had met Ton and Tako on our Russia trip July and jumped at the opportunity to reconnect with them while we were in NYC. From Newark Penn Station we were able to walk to Fornos of Spain, a Portages Spanish restaurant that served top notch food in gigantic portions. Salad, rice, bread, and vegetables were served family style Nita and I had Chilean Sea Bass, Ron Salmon, Tako and Avie Halibut, and Tom Monk fish. Each meal was presented with excellent table appeal. None of us were able to finish our meals. My sea bass was 3 times the servings that I have had at other restaurants, as good as any, and well seasoned with a balsamic vinegar sauce. The Lento’s went home with enough fish to eat for a week. Tom and Tako were as delightful and we had remembered them and we hope to connect with them again, hopefully on a future trip to Japan. We got back on the train to NYC and got to bed about 11:15; it was a full day.

Monday was spend on a long walk down the Hudson River down to the Pier where the Intrepid Aircraft Carrier is docked and is now an museum, something that we’ll see next time in NYC, we also saw the free kayaking offered on the Hudson and extensive bike paths the length of Manhattan Island; more to do on our next trip to NYC. Ron and can see us coming back with a three day stop in D.C. and a three or four day stay in NYC; Amtrak will transport our bikes for $20.00 each way so we can use them in both cities.

The Best of our trip:
Best Hotel: Saint Sulpice in Montreal
Best Restaurants: Water Prince – “Seafood Restaurant and Lobster Pond” in Charlottown PEI and Fornos of Spain in Newark
Best City: Quebec… a well preserved picture of the past
Best Surprise: The Train… a relaxing way to get from here to there
Best Achievement: Had a unique Segway tour of DC the same week the owner of Segway drove one over a cliff at his mansion in England and killed himself, we didn’t even fall off ours.
Best Memory: The view of the Chateau Frontenac from Lower Town Quebec on a rainy afternoon
Best Rush: Not great but the bike ride on around the F-1 track in Montreal

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Norwegain Spirit Quebec to Boston

You’d think we would learn, when 2000 people show up to get on a ship the process is slow and tedious, but not so. We like most of the other passengers were at the checkout tent on the dock to board the Norwegian Spirit at 12:00 noon even though the ship didn’t depart until 8:00 PM, after all they are serving lunch, and we don’t want to miss that. So we endured a one and a half hour process of checking in and making our way through security.

Once on board we made ourselves at home having been on the Spirit last January for a Western Caribbean cruise out of New Orleans. Our first full day was dedicated to sailing up the Saguenay Fjord, a glacial cut formation resulting in steep cliffs that now serve to allow the waters of the Atlantic Ocean ant the Gulf of Saint Lawrence to flow 330 miles into northern Canada. The fall foliage provides a colorful palate to appreciate nature’s transitional beauty. Although the air tempetures is in the mid sixties and the ships movement generates a cool wind warm sunning spots were in abundance. A bonus of a spotting of Beluga Whales in the late afternoon provided a delightful finish to a very relaxing day. It was nice to reduce the pace and kick back; I also started the third book of the Stieg Larsson trilogy, The Girl that Kicked a Hornets Nest.

Monday we dock in Sept-Iles (Seven Islands) a small fishing town of 25,000 that has transformed into a center for iron ore and aluminum manufacturing and is making a valiant effort to become a cruise ship stop. There really isn’t much to see or do in Sept-Iles; the best description I heard was any small Mid-western town with a McDonalds, KFC and Wall Mart. There is a small museum tracing the history of the area and the Montagnais Innu people back to 1535. The big plus was the city had set up a huge reception tent just off the ship where they had booths showing their crafts, handing our crackers with local shrimp, but most important free internet service; connecting aboard the ship can run from $.40 to $.75 per minute depending on the plan that you purchase.

Tuesday we docked in Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, population of 32,000, a pictures thriving town; a perfect place to live if you somehow could avoid the winters. The houses and buildings around the main streets are reminiscent of our New England, US dating back to the 16th and early 17th century. We walked into town and immediately went to a restaurant recommended by Dawn, one of the ports ship inspectors that I engaged while he was doing his inspection, as the best “lobster experience” in Charlottetown. At the corner of Prince and Water streets we found Water Prince – “Seafood Restaurant and Lobster Pond” Four lobsters ordered that came with a pound of muscles and potato salad, I accompanied my 2lber with a pint of Sir John A’s Honey Wheat Ale. It turned out to be the meal of the trip, so far. The restaurant was small and friendly and our server gave us a heads up on Charlottetown’s best ice cream served at Cow’s at the corner of Queen and Grafton Street sharing a restroom with Subway, I actually had two pints with my 2 pound lobster. The weather was warm but not hot so a leisurely stroll back to the ship and we said goodbye at 5:30 PM. Thus far an outstanding feature of this out of the way cruise itinerary is the friendliness of the people at the ports that we have visited, they appreciated us coming to visit them, at Sept-Iles there were at least 200 people on the pier waving us “goodbye” as we left their little town, you won’t find that anywhere else.
Wednesday is a “Sea Day”, we’ve all formed some habits; being early risers Ron, Nita and I usually meet in the Rallies Restaurant for early coffee then Nita and I go to a 7:30 Exercise Class joined by Ron at 8:00 for a half hour on the machines in the gym before breakfast. As with all cruises food is at a plenty and anything that you want is available, you don’t go hungry on cruises. At sea days gives me time to catch-up with the stock market movements and possibly place a trade that can pay for the vacation, natural gas is up 9 cents and that just might do it for this vacation. We spend the balance of the time reading, napping, writing, and eating, it’s not a bad life but it can’t go on to long.

Thursday we dock in Halifax, Nova Scotia; we’ve been here before, two years ago on our trans-Atlantic crossing from Dover England to NYC. Halifax is a city that appears to have been hit hard by the recession, there are many empty store fronts but in this case I get the idea that the city just over built for it’s tourist trade during good times and now, like in most places it’s survival of the fittest. One of the fittest are the Murphy’s, they own the large restaurant on the pier, the Theodore Tug Boat, the whale watching and tall ship concession and any number of store fronts. Having had a lobster lunch two days ago in Charlottetown we opted for Lobster Wraps, Lobster Quesada, fish chowder and crab cakes. Avie went all out and had a slice of “five berry pie”. We left Murphy’s confident that they will be here if and when we revisit Halifax. We’d seen the Maritime Museum and the Titanic Exhibition on our last visit, so I found the history of the Arcadian people of Halifax interesting.

The Arcadians were the French people living in Halifax in the mid 1700’s, which was a British colony. They wanted French rule and were thus not welcome in Halifax. The British deposed them to Saint George Island, a small island about a mile out in Halifax harbor. In 1762 the British put these 600 Arcadians on a ship and attempted to dump them in Boston but the people of Boston turned then away, so the were put back on Saint George Inland, where the living conditions were deplorable. In 1764 the British scattered the families across Nova Scotia resulting in many of the families, in an effort to stay together, making a pilgrimage to Louisiana where they established a major part of today’s Louisiana culture. Thus French is not spoken in Halifax as it is in Montreal and Quebec.

Friday and our last stop is Portland Maine, what a beautiful entrance into the harbor, magnificent homes line the shore as we approach the downtown port that serviced what is now Old Portland back in the early 1700’s. The brick line streets are all the remain of that old city as most of the city burnt on July 4 1866 resulting from a fireworks celebration that went wrong leaving 10,000 people homeless. The new Old Town was rebuilt in brick with a Victorian appearance. We spent our day walking the city, taking in what I saw as a free spirit lifestyle and eating one more lobster before we leave this colorful part of North America.

Lunch, lobster was enjoyed at DiMillo’s Floating Restaurant a build around an old steel hulled ship right on the water. The atmosphere was pure Maine, the service was great and the lobster was second only to the one we had in Charlottetown two days earlier. Bad habit being hard to brake, we took a short walk back into old town and found Beals Ice Cream for a double dip desert. Nita and I both enjoy the feel of Maine and I feel sure that we will revisit Portland in the future.

The cruise has been a welcome respite in our New England Adventure and I will plan future trips with a similar itinerary, tomorrow we will dock in Boston get back on the train and head to New York City.